Hike Like a Lady

“To walk in nature is to witness a thousand miracles.”  

                                                                                                  Mary Davis

There are people who like to hike, and there are actual hikers.  You can tell the difference by looking at their gear.  Actual hikers carry bigger packs, and they eschew the type of personal grooming often highlighted in Instagram tutorial videos.  (Think: “Contouring with Drugstore Make-up”, and “The Perfect Eyebrow”).  Actual hikers ooze confidence and the kind of beauty that radiates from a deep and abiding love affair with nature.  In another life I’d be an actual hiker.

Over the course of our marriage, my husband and I have relished the opportunity to get out and experience the best that Mother Nature has to offer.  We’ve hiked all over the United States, and can’t get enough of our National Park System.  Most of our experiences have been really positive, and we’ve learned a lot along the way.

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Our typical hiking adventures go from one to five miles, although we have done one or two longer treks.  From my perspective as a woman, here are some thoughts and ideas I’d like to pass along:

  1. Show up Early:  I know how painful it is to get up early while you are traveling, but getting to the visitor’s center and trailhead early yields a BUNCH of great rewards:
    1. You are more likely to see wildlife in the early morning and at dusk. img_20190618_093205632_hdr
    2. Crowds and tour buses normally begin arriving around 10:00AM, so the early hiker gets the solitude and quiet of an empty trail.
    3. Speaking of crowds and tour buses:  arriving early ensures that you won’t have to HIKE to your car after completing your HIKE.  Parking is limited in most state and national parks, so the early-bird gets a closer/and possibly shaded spot.
    4. Rangers have a bit more time to spend with each hiker, before being inundated with questions and requests.
    5. It’s generally cooler and more pleasant to hike in the early morning hours.
  2. Know the Plan:  I love to people-watch, and I’ve noticed that the men seem to be the ones to get recommendations and information about hikes, while women look around and shop.  Here’s the deal.  Four ears hearing the same information is better than two. So, if you are planning to hike, definitely be a part of the discussion and planning.  I can’t tell you how many times my husband and I, after having heard the SAME INFORMATION ABOUT A HIKE, have had to stop and remind the other person where the ranger told us to go.
  3. Carry a Map:  This one seems so obvious, but there is a temptation that a map is simply not necessary for the shorter, easier hikes.  We typically hand the ranger a map, and have him or her write on it so that those notes can help us navigate once we’ve forgotten the details of where to turn, etc.  In our experience, service is sketchy at best inside the national parks, and while you may be using one of the great trail/hiking apps, a map is a good back-up in case things go south.img_20190624_173650827.jpg
  4. Carry Little Else:  I’ve found that really limiting myself to just the absolute necessities makes the whole experience better. What seems “light enough to carry” might feel like a ton of bricks after 5 miles.  (This list is by no means a recommendation of what to take.  Just avoid taking extras that you won’t need.  i.e. make-up bag, coin purse, charger cords, etc.).  I use either a small Camelback backpack or fanny pack, depending on the trail.  For me, I include the following for every hike:
    1. map
    2. phone/camera
    3. hair band
    4. two bandaids
    5. Kleenex
    6. two sandwich zip lock bags
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  5. Be Memorable:  Even if you get an early start, you will surely meet other hikers on the trail.  I always try to make eye contact and speak to them, because if the worst should happen, they might remember seeing me, and be able to direct emergency responders to our whereabouts more quickly.  Wearing an interesting hat or t-shirt, or a brightly colored pack is also a good way to be remembered.  Generally hikers are a friendly, helpful bunch, so look for opportunities to engage in conversation.
  6. Potty like a Princess:  It’s SUCH a drag to have to potty on the trail.  But it’s not ok to leave tissue behind when your are done with your business.  I always include a pack of Kleenex and small ziplock bags for just such an occasion.  Yes: I mean that you should put the Kleenex inside the ziplock, and stow it in your pack, once you’ve used it to tidy up after a potty break.  It’s the right thing to do.DSC_0088.JPG

We just got home from California, where we hiked in Lassen Volcanic National Park, Redwood National Park, Mendocino and Marin county.  Our hearts are full of beauty and our feet are ready for more!  Soon we will be heading East to the Great Smokey Mountains, and look forward to exploring new and different landscapes!

Maine and the Bay of Fundy

I married a man who can plan an amazing family trip, and for the first few years we were married, Mark handled ALL of the planning and preparations when we traveled.  My job was to simply pack myself and the kids, and be ready to go when it was time!  Easy-peasy!

One of the first trips we took as a family was to Maine and Canada during the summer.  We flew into Boston, loaded into our rental car and spent a few hours exploring Salem.

After lunch, we drove north to Bar Harbor, Maine.  We learned that driving on the two-lane state roads is SLOW GOING, but we finally made it to our VBRO rental by early evening.

We carved out lots of time to explore Acadia National Park, which was literally right up the road from where we were staying.  It’s a beautiful park with so many places to pull over and explore on foot.  The kids, who were much younger at the time, relished the chance to run ahead and “lead” the way.  We explored huge outcroppings of granite, and trails through the woodsy areas.  The landscape is pristine, and the park is so large that we never felt it was too crowded.

Tucked away in Acadia National Park, is Sand Beach where the kids were able to swim and frolic in the waves.  It was quite crowded compared to the rest of Acadia, but still a lovely way to spend most of the day.

 

After three days in Bar Harbor, we took a two day excursion to Alma, in New Brunswick, Canada.   Alma is located along the Bay of Fundy, home of the highest tides in the world.  We are enchanted by the strange and wonderful ways Mother Nature shows off, and the Bay of Fundy did not disappoint.

When we arrived, it was low tide.  The fishing boats were resting on the ocean floor, and we could walk out almost a mile to the water.

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It was hard to explain to the kids that these were actually working fishing boats, and that the water would eventually rise enough to make them float.

Cara and I walked straight out as far as we could on the “beach.”

Mark and Colin explored the shoreline, where they found driftwood, tide pools and lots of slimy algae.

By the time we were done exploring the bay, we were famished.   But what you need to know about Alma, is that there are few dining options- especially, if you don’t care for fish!

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The next morning, the pier looked like this!  We were amazed!

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After breakfast, and hearing the sad news that we had missed a moose meandering down the road outside our hotel room, we set off to explore Fundy National Park.  Alma is nestled just inside the park, so our drive was minimal.  Our first stop was Point Wolfe Beach, where Mark taught the kids how to skip rocks.

You can’t imagine how serene and beautiful it is there!  We stayed longer that I thought we would, splashing in the water and exploring the shoreline.

Nearby there was a trail up to a waterfall, where I captured one of my favorite pictures of Mark and the kids.

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Later that day, after we had our fill of hiking, exploring and seeing the sights of Fundy National Park, we headed “home” to Bar Harbor. This was my first foray into Canada, and I fell in love.

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The day before we flew home to Texas,  we stopped at Wild Acadia Fun Park for a day of family fun.   Our kids have never forgotten this day, and it was the PERFECT stop after almost a week of nature activities.  Cara and I enjoyed the go-carts, while Mark and Colin did the high ropes maze and zip lines.  After the boys finished, we enjoyed a family race in the go-carts, and I don’t like to brag, but Cara and I smoked them!

We definitely want to return to Maine and the Bay of Fundy in the future.  What a beautiful part of the world, and there is so much more to see!

“There’s a quality of life in Maine which is this singular and unique.  It’s absolutely a world unto itself.”  Jamie Wyeth

 

Road Trip to Everywhere

I don’t want to brag, but we road-trip like a boss.  Our practice has been made perfect over the last ten years, and we can literally decide to GO and have the car packed and ready in less than an hour.  How do I know this?  Done it.  (mic drop)

In 2014 we planned a two-week road trip with four major stops, and it was really the first time I relaxed and just enjoyed spending time with Mark and the kids without all of the “shoulds.”  Total game-changer.

Day 1:  We left Dallas and drove the roughly four hours to Stillwater, Oklahoma.  My uncle lives there, and we spent the day with family.

 

Day 2:  The next morning we grabbed breakfast and hit the road.  It’s about a nine hour drive from Stillwater to Colorado Springs, and we stopped along the way to examine cotton fields and admire the high desert scenery.

Day 3:  After spending the night in Colorado Springs, we drove out to Canon City, where we had booked a half day river-rafting adventure with Raft Masters.  It was my third or fourth time to use Raft Masters, and they didn’t disappoint.  The kids had such fun, and the experience was thrilling and memorable!  Poor Mark had to drive us to Estes Park after the rafting trip while the rest of us conked out in the car.  Fun can be exhausting.

 

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Day 4,5 and 6:  I can’t adequately describe our love for Colorado.  There just aren’t words.  Our hearts are restored by beauty, and Colorado has beauty in spades.  We spent three days hiking in Rocky Mountain National Park and discovered a great (family friendly) hike to Emerald Lake.

 

Estes Park is a great place to prowl around, and there are numerous places to take a quick walk/hike just outside of town.  Also, we happened to arrive just in time for the annual 4th of July parade which was a total bonus!

 

Day 7:  By far one of the less interesting days on our trip was driving from Colorado Springs to Cody, Wyoming.  There wasn’t a lot to see along the way, but we did stop in Chugwater, Wyoming for lunch, and we’ve never forgotten it!  In fact, we now use it as a reference when describing small towns,  “Is it Chugwater small?”

 

 

 

Day 8:  Arriving in Cody was like stepping back in time.  The town has a deeply western feel, without coming off as artificial.  We stayed in the Moose Creek Lodge, and to my delight, there was a wonderful coffee shop right next door.  One of my favorite memories of the trip was made in that hotel.  Each night, tired from our adventures of the day, we’d all tuck into bed and watch The Andy Griffith Show.

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Day 9, 10, 11:  Cody is about an hour away from the Yellowstone gates, so we woke up early each morning, grabbed breakfast and COFFEE, and hit the road.  I mean, the scenery is gorgeous, so it’s a great way to start the day!

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So the thing about Yellowstone is that it is a HUGE National Park.  Honestly, you could spend a full week there, but we only had three days, so we hit the “major” sights like any self-respecting tourist family should.  Do I wish we had hiked out at dawn to see the Yellowstone wolves?  Yes.  Yes I do.  But the kids were little, and I could still run faster than them, so of course I was worried I’d outrun them if the wolves attacked.  I have a strong will to live, dear reader.

One afternoon Cara and I mounted up and rode the hills around Yellowstone.  We thoroughly enjoyed the breathtaking vistas and even got to see a big pile of grizzly bear scat…freshly laid and still steaming.  Our guide was so gracious and friendly, and watching my little slip of a daughter ride like a champ filled me with joy and just a wee bit of pride.   Ok, a LOT of pride.

We noticed a funny phenomenon during our visit to Yellowstone:  the first bison/elk/bear you see is completely thrilling.  You pull the car over, pile out and start snapping pictures like a National Geographic photog.  But by the third day, it’s “meh, another bison. (yawn)”.  It’s totally crazy, because IT’S A BISON, ya’ll!!

We saw elk, deer, bison, chipmunks, marmots and a great big grizzly bear foraging for food on the other side of the river.  What we found rather incredible is that these animals were near and around the geysers as well as their more “traditional” habitats.  I cornered a park ranger (as I am wont to do…) and asked one million questions about the marmots scurrying around Grand Geyser.  Apparently they can sense when the geyser is about to erupt, and they hightail it outta there to safety.

Day 12:  We left early from Cody, and drove about six hours to Mount Rushmore.  With stops along the way, we arrived mid afternoon.  I was both impressed and underwhelmed by Mount Rushmore, so if I don’t get back to see it again, I’m good.  The town around Mount Rushmore reminds me of Las Vegas, except western.  And small.

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Day 13:  So here’s the real gem of our road trip!  We hadn’t planned on staying in South Dakota for an extra day, but when Mark learned that Wind Cave National Park was in the area, we extended our stay an extra day.  First of all, to get to Wind Cave, you have to drive through Custer State Park-  what a beautiful place!  Aaaaand, there are numerous prairie dogs to see along the way, so that was fun for the kids.

Wind Cave is more incredible that I can describe.  The caverns are small, and the tunnels go every which way.  Our park ranger made such an impression in telling about the history, discovery and exploration of Wind Cave.  She was also patient and comforting to those of us (read: just me) who struggle with claustrophobia.  If you visit Mount Rushmore or South Dakota, you will not regret a stop at Wind Cave National Park.  By far one of the most wonderful national parks we’ve visited.

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We left Wind Cave mid afternoon, and started driving home.  Originally, we planned on stopping in Nebraska or Kansas for an overnight, but Mark decided to drive all the way.  Fifteen hours later, we pulling into our driveway, exhausted but content after our family road trip.

Day 14:  Zzzzzzzzzzzzz.

Fourteen days, three national parks, one national memorial and about a million miles.  It’s a lot to fit in, but we came home with so many great memories.  The kids expanded their worldview as they gained new understandings about ecosystems, geography,  indigenous peoples, map reading and surviving forced family fun.  Ha!

Next time?  We make the trek out to see the wolves at dawn, since I’m the slowest…just call me #wolfbait.